A great end to our visit was a performance by Students at University of Ghana arranged by Dr Williams; the dancers and drummers did a great job providing us with stories and beats. This dance was one designed to have women encourage the gods to bring rain - to protect the women the warriors dressed as women and did the dance (I'm not sure if the gods were fooled but we were entertained by the men dancing in bras!). The performance ended with our students being invited to join in! A final Thanks to Sonny and Martin (and gifts of Cedi) and then back to hotel to prep for final travel. A great ending to a wonderful adventure.

Friday in the Mines and the Kumasi Central Market

A trip to AgloAshanti Gold
Mines; we started out with a great lecture on the efforts made to ensure environmental sustainabilty and then a trip 800 feet down the mine! Even Uncle Martin joined us for this adventure. The trip down wasn't bad, but coming back up was a little chore - tiring but not impossible. Sorry, no souveniers, we were unable to remove ANYTHING from the mine.

Then a trip back to Kumasi (lunch at BonJour...pizza) and then a quick visit to the Kumasi Central Market (here are some palm kernals) - we were greeted with fist pumps and cries of OBAMALAND! I'm pleased we were able to squeeze in a visit, even at the end of the day, this is the second largest open market in Africa.

Thursday-Kente Cloth, Adinkra designs and Beads

A colorful day; first stop was the village of Bonwire to see the manufacture of Kente Cloth. I found out that most people were expecting a factory but what we encountered were about a dozen looms in a small workshop. The students were able to try their hands (and feet) at the looms and I did some bargaining and picked up a few really nice cotton pieces and one really nice silk one.

Then onto a village which uses dyes and stamps to crate akindra design; we watched the process from start to finish using traditional (and not so traditional) Ashanti symbols. When we first arrived the students ran from school and elsewhere and came to see the people from OBAMALAND; one boy was so excited he tried to get our attention by cartwheeling - constantly - really, he did about 25 cartwheels in a row. The real treat was when Kenya and Ken bought treats (candy, pencils, notebooks - like our "blue" books at school) for the kids and they just swarmed to try to get one.

Then onto a village which makes traditional glass beads for a demonstration; they use recycled glass which they collect and grind down into a powerder and with the use of some clay molds they design and fire the beads right there. They use a kiln which has been in continuous use for over 60 years although it is made of local clay - they've virtually abandoned the gas fire kiln given to them as they can't afford the fuel.

Lunch at the Cultural Center and a nice visit to the Jubilee Museum and a little shopping.

Another late afternoon lecture on the attempts to regulate Forestry use and to assure sustainable forestry. Many students were curious about "legal" aspects and found the discussion very useful.

Wednesday-the road to Kumasi

A long, long ride (over 5 hours) to Kumasi...most roads were ok but some...were unbelievable (there's a scandal recently reported about road contractors not being paid which explains why the road suddenly just disappears!). Lots of traffic and warm bread on the way; all the students in pretty good spirits but unsure of what Kumasi will bring.

We stayed at the Treasure Land Hotel and checked in, grabbed some lunch and then headed for the Palace. Here are a few of the students. It's a quaint museum with lots of character and "stuff". We were fortunate to have the curator of the museum be our personal guide through the collection.

Then a late afternoon lecture on the Land Tenure System in Ghana; students (and Kenya and I) were all impressed with the knowledge and depth of understanding demonstrated. Land is owned by "the people" so the idea of private ownership is relatively new and never absolute.

Tuesday back to Accra

A long trip back to Accra (now affectionately called "home" by the students); back in time to go change some money, grab some lunch and head out to the school in Nima.

When we first passed through Nima on our introductory tour the students were struck by the poverty. I had asked students to bring school supplies in anticipation of getting to visit a school and Aya Center (fantastic) was able to arrange a visit for our students to a local school.

They were about 55 students who prepared for our visit to their school by putting on a show for our students. They recited poetry, dance, sing, and just had a wonderful time entertaining our students. The students made gifts of the supplies (and had pooled their money to raise about $100 cedi as a gift to the school). Dan was hit giving out GUSHERS...the kids started calling him yellow man (the gusher's box was yellow). All students were visibly moved by sharing time with the students are we're pleased we were able to offer them an opportunity to get close to children who are so passionate about their learning! A great way to spend time (and money) in Africa.

My (obligatory) African sunset photo.

Monday at Vii Falls

Up early and out to the monkey sanctuary and an hour hike through the bush; the students had so much fun feeding the colubus monkeys it was a shame to leave. Our tour through the jungle ended at the village that hosts the monkey sanctuary and we met many wonderful children and their mothers. Here is KWAMI who really enjoyed seeing his own photo.

Lunch at Vii Falls (Veggie Sandwiches for me) and then an hour hike up to the fall; FANTASTIC - a real highlight of the trip. Most of the students went in swimming and had a blast. Everyone agreed it was a wonderful adventure and the group enjoyed shopping in the village. Our gift to our guide was a FOX School b-ball cap.

Back to Chances hotel for an early night and back to Accra tomorrow.

Sunday on the Dodi Princess

About and out early to the Volta Region for a 5 hour boat ride (and lunch) on the Volta River aboard the Dodi Princess. We had a rockin' time with this great Ghanian Band (about 10 people) and got to stop at a remote island to visit the children...who all wanted "Pens". We got to see the Dam, but not to tour it. A great day and a good chance for everyone to just chill. Then on to the Chances Hotel in Ho.

Saturday - a "free" day

Saturday was scheduled as a free day, and after changing money (stories about AMEX Travelers' checks will have to wait...just good new here) we headed back to the Cultural Arts Center for shopping. The students are beginning to get the real hang of bargaining and they've learned to walk away. We had first visited the market late Wednesday afternoon and it was frantic - it was later and the vendors surely wanted to finish the day with a sale and so were very aggressive and the students found today that the pace was much easier and they demonstrated more self-confidence. I did pick up a few things I hadn't seen before as well as the "obligatory" African Mask.

A later lunch with some students (some went to the beach, others back to the hotel to rest) and then I headed off to James Town to see the lighthouse and to walk through the town and onto Ussher Town. The light house was cool - I got a private tour and then walked back to Independence Circle by way of the promenade through James Town and Ussher Town. I ran into these cute brothers and sisters. Their mother asked me to take their photos and the children were very pleased to see themselves! I gave them some stickers I had and they were pleased.

A great dinner with live music at Chez Afrique and then some students are heading out as I head up to bed...we've got an early start tomorrow for Volta Region and the boat ride.

Friday in Elmina

What an incredible day Thursday was for everyone; lots of exhausted students but off to Elmina Castle in the AM. Our guide, Lawrence, was thorough and very thoughtful; he made sure that everyone had a clear understanding the personal stories associated with the castle. In speaking with several of the students who were incredibly moved by the stories we agreed that the Cape Coast Castle tour helped us to understand the emergence of the Slaving Systems and how slaves were interred and then transported but that the Elmina Castle tour was the STORY of the slaves in their journey. Very moving and quite disorienting for many, but a healthy look at the impact of the system.

At the end of the tour, Lawrence reminded us that although we may hate the past, it is past and can't be changed and that is through this system that we have now all become one.

Back to Accra for dinner and the some students went out to a club with our Aya Center Guide, Sonny...I don't want to know what time they got back but they were all raving about the fun that they had.

The REAL CROCS

Up and out early...well a little later than expected...to Cape Coast a 3 hour ride from Accra on a good day. Lots of fun stories and laughing on the bus, but our guide, SONNY, was good about trying to help prepare the students for the day ahead. About half-way, we took a little rest stop and were met by lovely children...one had on these great shoes...real CROCS!

On then to Check into our hotel - Saana Lodge and off to Cape Coast castle for a late morning tour of the castle (perhaps too late morning as it was HOT but our guide was able to keep us in the shade for a large portion of our tour. The students were astounded at the information they heard and many were visibly moved by the information but ALL of us were grateful for the chance to visit the castle with our guide, MORGAN - he allowed all of us to travel through "the door of no return" and then to return through it as a cleansing gesture. This was a fantastic, provocative experience for all - lots of photos and remembrances.

I was amused at the end of the tour when our students presented Morgan with a TU Aluminum water bottle and some cedi as a thank you. After the students left he called me back to ask "Madam, what is this? What is it for?" When I explained that in Philadelphia we're able to drink the tap water (I didn't begin to explain BRITA) and explained that many of the students use bottles like that he just said "WHY?"... I handed him another 10 cedi and suggested he could put BEER in there too. As we left the castle...he and his friends were tossing the bottle back and forth - likely thinking - crazy Americans!

On to Hans Cottage for lunch - it's a tough call to choose the HIGHLIGHT - the crocodile the students could pet (for a cedi, of course- this is SARA HANSON getting her money's worth) or the PINEAPPLE ICE CREAM! A real treat.

Then onto Kakunda National Park and the Canopy Walk - ALL of us did at least one leg and 18 of us did all of it - WOW. A real experience - I just wish we could have taken it slower so I could take advantage of the view of the forest canopy. I spied No monkeys sittin' in the tree but I did see butterflies the size of birds! A truly memorable experience for sure.

Wednesday - the Stock Exchange

A great adventure at the growing GHANAIAN STOCK Exchange; we got to meet with the PR and the Director of Marketing for the exchange as well as several others (Deposits, General Manager, Director of IT). What was most impressive was the most of the directors are WOMEN!

The students got a good overview (and reading material) on the structure of the exchange (there are currently about 24 firms listed and there's a goal to attract 7 in 2010) and how the exchange addresses the dual role of attracting COMPANIES to LIST as well as INVESTORS! The students were totally engaged and although trading wasn't going on - it's limited - the students did get to get down onto the floor and see the BIG Board as well as to hear of the recent development of the exchange.

We then had a wonderful visit to Nkrumah's Mausoleum; a fantastic visual history of Ghana's first president.

Lunch followed at the National Theater (designed and built by the CHINESE for GHANA) and then went off to the Ghanaian Industrial Policy Committee charged with the responsibility for attracting foreign investment in several core areas. The students were very impressed with the presentations and they had many thought-provoking questions (we may have exhausted our host - but he was totally engaged too).

The "tailor" stopped to get everyone to order outfits and there was lots of fun and tons of oohs and aahs. Here's Menaka modeling some fabric she bought at the market with plans to shape it into a dress for herself and Ally!

Dinner back at the hotel...Pizza and french fries - a treat for students tiring of Joloff rice and chicken and/or fish. Up early Thursday for the Cape Coast.

Tuesday was a wonderful day; we toured the University of GHANA and had two wonderful speakers who shared their perspectives on the cultural and economic history of Ghana.

Professor Kofi Asare Opoku was kind enough to share with us five key Ghanian Proverbs as well as to explain the naming procedure for Ghanian babies (babies are named for the day of the week and are ascribed certain, postive personal characteristics).

The Five Ghanian Proverbs were:

*One must go out of one's house to be trained

*If you haven't been out of your house, you can't say your Mother's soup is the best

*Truth (Wisdom or Knowledge) is like a balbab tree; one person's arms cannot embrace it

*However big the eye may be; two eyes are better.

*Hunt in every forest for there is wisdom and reward in all of them

The students were thrilled with the presentation and didn't flinch when the lights went off (power outage). The professor was charming.

We had a nice luncheon at U/G dining room and we were fortunate that Kenya and Gifti (our associate from the AYA Center) were persistent, patient, and convincing in getting the Manager of the University Bookstore to open up so we could spend some Cedi (and we DID!). We cleared them out of their U/G sports wear (look for students sporting Tee's, tracksuits, and hats with U/G logos...except Doug decided to buy the hat with RUSSIAN Writing).

I was (unecessarily) worried about the afternoon session With Dr Vladimir Antwi-Danso Don Diego; the students were FULL and I expected some to fade in the heat of the afternoon session but our presenter was energetic and passionate in giving the students a fantastic overview of the recent economic history of Ghana. He tried to provide a context for the African slave trade as foundation for understanding the recent history. The students had many questions and comments and were fully engaged (rewarding for both Kenya and I).

We ended the day with a nice meal at an upscale restaurant (Buka) to celebrate Maria's 22nd birthday - complete with cake and singing!

Day two; everone is doing well and ready to roll. The morning was spent at the US Embassy where we got a chance to meet with the Directors of the Economic Mission, Public Affairs, USAID, Peace Corps and Second Millenium Corporation (An NGO). The highlight (for me) was when Ambassador Teitelbaum who spent about an hour with the panel answering the students' questions. The students then got a chance to interact with young Ghanians seeking opportunities to study abroad; the US Embassy has an Education Commission which helps the students locate and apply to study in the US. Our students really were excited to offer their "expert" advice on getting into, and managing to stay in, college.

Off to a nice lunch (see photo) and then to the OSO region of Accra to change money; the students with Travelers' Checks had a difficult time...the students who just changed money had the great experience of being inside the bus when it was SWARMED by young men wanting to sell trinkets and curios (very much like India)...some students got great deals.

All is well; everyone seems to be adjusting to the group dynamic...it's Maria's Birthday tomorrow so everyone's out at the pool having a beer! More to follow.

Ghana's HOT-HOT-HOT!

Our plane was delayed four hours out of JFK, but from there on out an uneventful, if cramped, journey. Delta did a good job keeping their humor and being positive. Arrived at around 1115 in GHANA; it was like being hit with a brick it was SOOOooooo Hot. The ride to hotel was mercifully short, and we had a nice orientation meeting with Professor Michael Williams of Aya Center. Students introduced themselves and shared their first impressions. I am too tired to notice much beyond the very happy faces and beautiful cloth used in all the "SUNDAY BEST" clothing we saw today. A brief tour of Greater Accra was followed by a wonderful meal at Chez Afrique and a nice walk back to the hotel. Most students are doing well, but it's early in the trip and we're all running on fumes...we'll see how everyone bounces back tomorrow. The photo is of a group of girls we met on our way home from dinner at Chez Afrique! They were so friendly and full of smiles for us.

OK, less than a day away and I'm getting excited; we depart TU tomorrow AM and head up to JFK for a 410PM flight direct from NY to Accra in Ghana (about 8 and a half hours).

Note from the map that GHANA is located on the western coast of Africa - we'll be very close to the equator- hot, hot, hot.

I tried to pack lightly, but ended up bringing all sorts of snacks (my raisins, cereal bars, etc) along with a stash of crayons, pencils, markers, etc in case we visit an elementary school. Weather looks good, it will be dry and dusty, but hopefully not too dusty.

Most of the students have developed successful thesis statements and I know will be able to relate better to our excursions as a result of the research they completed PRIOR to departure.

Started my anti-malarial (Malarone)...I'm finding it is giving me weird dreams.

Off to do some final packing; the next post will be from Africa.